India. A Travel Log.
Oct 28
Click. I wrapped up my eBook purchase on Google Play. My brain needed something to chew on for the 20 hour trip to Mumbai. 12 hrs YVR to Beijing. 8 hrs Beijing to Mumbai. The title of the book "Around India in 80 Trains" by Monisha Rajesh. I felt this book appropriate enough to give me a crash course on India. In it, the author gave a colorful account of India's many faces, from the hustle and bustle in Mumbai to the scenic resort town sleepiness of Goa all the whilst braving the craziness of riding the Indian railway.
Click. I wrapped up my eBook purchase on Google Play. My brain needed something to chew on for the 20 hour trip to Mumbai. 12 hrs YVR to Beijing. 8 hrs Beijing to Mumbai. The title of the book "Around India in 80 Trains" by Monisha Rajesh. I felt this book appropriate enough to give me a crash course on India. In it, the author gave a colorful account of India's many faces, from the hustle and bustle in Mumbai to the scenic resort town sleepiness of Goa all the whilst braving the craziness of riding the Indian railway.
Erika looked excited and frightened. I shrugged it off with a smile. I switch my phone to airplane mode.
We board. We fly. Tomorrow, India.
Oct 29
Survived the 12 flight to Beijing. I miss this place. I joked I would cancel the rest of the trip in lieu of Beijing. I can stay here forever. Erika seemed too tired to humour me. She played along anyway. "Too late for that, I think", she said. We board for Mumbai. The passengers were all Indian. We stood out like sore thumbs.
Survived the 12 flight to Beijing. I miss this place. I joked I would cancel the rest of the trip in lieu of Beijing. I can stay here forever. Erika seemed too tired to humour me. She played along anyway. "Too late for that, I think", she said. We board for Mumbai. The passengers were all Indian. We stood out like sore thumbs.
Oct 30
We made it to Mumbai. Exiting the airport was a breeze. No checked in bags to claim and getting the eTourist stamp was straightforward. Airport staff spoke English so language wasn't too much of an issue if you could work through their thick accent. I worked through it. We hopped on a prepaid taxi. First stop, 4 star hotel at Juhu Beach. It was a chill ride although the scenery wasn't so much. It was poor. Literally, poor. Run down buildings, make shift shacks, garbage on the road. At times, it felt less than third world. I felt sorry for India. It reminded me of the injustices also found in the Philippines. That was my first impression. The airport was nice though.
We made it to Mumbai. Exiting the airport was a breeze. No checked in bags to claim and getting the eTourist stamp was straightforward. Airport staff spoke English so language wasn't too much of an issue if you could work through their thick accent. I worked through it. We hopped on a prepaid taxi. First stop, 4 star hotel at Juhu Beach. It was a chill ride although the scenery wasn't so much. It was poor. Literally, poor. Run down buildings, make shift shacks, garbage on the road. At times, it felt less than third world. I felt sorry for India. It reminded me of the injustices also found in the Philippines. That was my first impression. The airport was nice though.
Arriving at hotel we waited for 5 hours prior to check-in. We arrived at 2am and they didn't do check-ins before 7am. Got in the room. Dropped dead and slept.
Woke up and bought a SIM card from Vodafone vendor across the hotel. Simple enough. Empowered with maps and 3G data I felt more daring to explore the city. Walked on Juhu beach, took a couple of Facebook worthy holiday pics. Then we hit a dead end with human feces splattered all over the beach. The stench was wretched. I had enough of Mumbai at that point. Trekked back to the hotel. Stayed there until next day for the Delhi flight.
Oct 31
Arriving at the domestic airport in Mumbai, we were told the flight to Delhi was International. That didn't make any sense but I went along anyway. Took a cab to the international terminal. The cabbie tried ripping me off with an unmetered fare. 1000 rupees for a 6 minute drive. Bulls*it. After putting up a fuss, I threw 350 at him and stormed off.
Arriving at the domestic airport in Mumbai, we were told the flight to Delhi was International. That didn't make any sense but I went along anyway. Took a cab to the international terminal. The cabbie tried ripping me off with an unmetered fare. 1000 rupees for a 6 minute drive. Bulls*it. After putting up a fuss, I threw 350 at him and stormed off.
We arrived in Delhi and negotiated a 7000 rupee taxi ride to Agra. 6 hrs later we arrive. Snapped a couple of touristy pics of the Taj Mahal. Magnificent work. Incredible experience to see it and touch it. Decided to buy a magnet for mom. Bought it at a marked up price, and at some point, I felt all were conspiring to make or steal money from us tourist prey. Decided to check in the hotel. I had enough. Felt uncomfortable. Didn't feel safe. Couldn't sleep. Slept for an hour.
Nov 1
Woke up. Got pulled into an auto rickshaw ride. The driver was a friendly old man, friendly enough to drive us around for a tour of some local merchants. Merchants we weren't interested in. Bought a shirt anyway. Checked out of the hotel and rode the taxi back to Delhi. We bonded with the cabbie. His name was Rajesh. He believed in true love. He said the secret to a long lasting marriage is forgiveness. I agreed. When we arrived in Delhi I tipped him a handsome sum for getting to the hotel safe and sound.
Woke up. Got pulled into an auto rickshaw ride. The driver was a friendly old man, friendly enough to drive us around for a tour of some local merchants. Merchants we weren't interested in. Bought a shirt anyway. Checked out of the hotel and rode the taxi back to Delhi. We bonded with the cabbie. His name was Rajesh. He believed in true love. He said the secret to a long lasting marriage is forgiveness. I agreed. When we arrived in Delhi I tipped him a handsome sum for getting to the hotel safe and sound.
Delhi was good. We took a cab that night to snap pics of the Delhi gate. Snapped them and went straight back to the hotel. The cab was metered but the cabbie was nice enough to take us around Delhi on a scenic route. Paid him. Crashed on bed anxious for Goa.
Nov 2
6AM. It was way too early for anything but we had to check in for our Goa flight. Delhi airport was an amazing experience though. The food court had an ample selection of western and Indian foods. Obviously, I head straight for McDonalds. I had a veggie McMuffin which was out of this world delicious. The Delhi airport was a turning point in my view of India. Orderly. Clean. Strict, but friendly. It was India set straight. It was India's potential fully matured.
6AM. It was way too early for anything but we had to check in for our Goa flight. Delhi airport was an amazing experience though. The food court had an ample selection of western and Indian foods. Obviously, I head straight for McDonalds. I had a veggie McMuffin which was out of this world delicious. The Delhi airport was a turning point in my view of India. Orderly. Clean. Strict, but friendly. It was India set straight. It was India's potential fully matured.
We land in Goa early afternoon. On the taxi ride to the hotel I had an epiphany. I need to do my part to help India emerge as a global super power.
We clinked our glasses filled with watermelon juice in celebration of making it to Goa. After checking in and settling in our pristine, comfortable room we walked around the neighborhood. Amazing experience. The little portion of Goa we were in was densely Catholic. Shrines of the cross found on every half a block of the road. Old dusty churches and colorful Portuguese stylized houses were decorated with icons of Christ and Mary. I felt at ease. I felt at home. I fell in love with Goa.
Nov 3
After a somewhat awkward night, I woke up to a sweet sunrise. I tried making an early weekday mass but I couldn't hail a cab ride in time. Then I was asked if I wanted to rent a scooter. 500 rupees for the entire day. Heck yes. Vroom.
After a somewhat awkward night, I woke up to a sweet sunrise. I tried making an early weekday mass but I couldn't hail a cab ride in time. Then I was asked if I wanted to rent a scooter. 500 rupees for the entire day. Heck yes. Vroom.
After some fumbling around I made it across to Old Goa. Paid my respects to St. Francis Xavier at the Bom de Jesus Basilica. In that moment, the saint chose me. Snapped pics and bought a icon of St. Francis Xavier.
Rode with Erika to Candolim beach. Chilled. Laughed as Erika was harassed by street vendors for a over priced henna. Had dinner. Slept. Another amazing day in Goa.
Nov 4
Had some amazing roti and chutney paired with watermelon juice for breakfast. Rode out to Anjuna Beach. Erika was again harassed for henna. I passed on any offerings. Not my thing I politely inform them.
Had some amazing roti and chutney paired with watermelon juice for breakfast. Rode out to Anjuna Beach. Erika was again harassed for henna. I passed on any offerings. Not my thing I politely inform them.
Mapusa market was next. Dirty. Dirty,but convenient. Wide array of stuff for sale. From spices, to clay pots, to silk, to incense, and more. I haggled my way to buy 'authentic' 5g of saffron for 150 rupees. The vendor caved as it was his first sale of the morning. Had enough of the chaos. Rode scooter back. Took it easy for the rest of the night.
Nov 5
Decided to hit the last beach. Known for its parties and raves Ashvem beach was hailed as cream of the crop. I arrived early afternoon, walked around a bit, did some exploring but the town was sleepy. If this a rave spot I must have arrived on hangover recovery day. Not a partier (or tourist) in sight. I rode back a little dejected and was stopped by a cop on my way back. He 'fined' me 450 rupees for not showing a valid driver's license and not wearing a helmet. Everyone else on a motorcycle and scooter (not wearing a helmet) rode past me without incident.
Chilled at the hotel until about 7pm, then went out for our last dinner. Earthen Oven at Candolim beach. Amazing food, even better service. Highly recommended.
Decided to hit the last beach. Known for its parties and raves Ashvem beach was hailed as cream of the crop. I arrived early afternoon, walked around a bit, did some exploring but the town was sleepy. If this a rave spot I must have arrived on hangover recovery day. Not a partier (or tourist) in sight. I rode back a little dejected and was stopped by a cop on my way back. He 'fined' me 450 rupees for not showing a valid driver's license and not wearing a helmet. Everyone else on a motorcycle and scooter (not wearing a helmet) rode past me without incident.
Chilled at the hotel until about 7pm, then went out for our last dinner. Earthen Oven at Candolim beach. Amazing food, even better service. Highly recommended.
Nov 6
Some delays at the airport. We were making our way back to Mumbai for our final days in India. After a short 2.5 hour flight we arrive, exit, and decide to walk to the hotel which was located just about 3KM away. An auto rickshaw proposed a reasonable sum for his service. 100 rupees seemed OK, given the heat, so I accepted.
Some delays at the airport. We were making our way back to Mumbai for our final days in India. After a short 2.5 hour flight we arrive, exit, and decide to walk to the hotel which was located just about 3KM away. An auto rickshaw proposed a reasonable sum for his service. 100 rupees seemed OK, given the heat, so I accepted.
We arrived at the 5 star hotel in style. The auto rickshaw dropped us off and sputtered off. Dishevelled, sweaty and baggy eyed we finally made it. JW Marriott. The hotel was a palace. A place of refuge with all western comforts you could possibly imagine. It was paradise.
A pretty North Eastern Indian girl greeted us at the door. Checked us in and walked us all the way to our room. Her name was Pari. I thanked her for her hospitality, she smiled, and went her way. Wasn't sure to tip her, considering it was a 5 star hotel.
Rode out Uber style to Nariman Point, walked to Gateway of India, CS terminal, and finally Marine Drive. What an amazing city. This was the India I was meant to see. Vibrant, progressive, sophisticated, a rising super power. My faith in India restored unequivocally. As I sat at Starbucks with Erika I shared my infatuation with the country. The cafe buzzed with energy with working professionals and elite middle classers enjoying casual conversation in English with hints of Hindi.
Ubered back to the hotel beaten down from the heat and traffic, but overall satisfied.
Nov 7
Last day in India. Made a quick pit stop at Phoenix Market Mall; had to buy my India mug from Starbucks and some Nilgiri tea. After dinner, I soaked in the tub sprinkled with bath salts. Napped in the tub. Woke up at 3am next day and packed up. After ironing out some problems with my hotel fees, front desk arranged a complimentary ride to the airport. We left in style in an Audi A4.
Last day in India. Made a quick pit stop at Phoenix Market Mall; had to buy my India mug from Starbucks and some Nilgiri tea. After dinner, I soaked in the tub sprinkled with bath salts. Napped in the tub. Woke up at 3am next day and packed up. After ironing out some problems with my hotel fees, front desk arranged a complimentary ride to the airport. We left in style in an Audi A4.
That was it. That was India. Beautiful India.
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